Ok.. you're hooked. You are absolutely hooked on photography. You scan for reviews of cameras like a frenzied calorie counter spies his next diet - the only problem is you want everything. You have, as one of my favourite photography writers Eric Kim said, 'GAS' or Gear Acquisition Syndrome'. Now GAS doesn't sound like the most pleasant thing to have. It's cool, i'm here for you.

Here are some easy steps to beat G.A.S

Hide your wallet
Hide your money
Hide your money with your partner
DO NOT hide your partner.
Every time you get G.A.S shoot a new subject matter with your existing equipment.
Set your ebay and paypal passwords to something completely non memorable
Buy a Leica
[silence]

Before point 7 happens read the following. It might save you a few thousand $$$$

So my first opinion of this piece comes down to the holiest of holy G.A.S moments every photographer will fight - Whether or whether not you get yourself a LEICA. It's the quintessential Chanel handbag of cameras, the Kobe beef of food. It's THE bougee choice but you deserve it right? Right...Wrong. Now the following is going to be like an immigration test where if you answer anything NO you're deported back to the land of no-Leicas. I'll do explanations after. Not knowing the answer counts as a no. Here we go!

QUESTION 1. Do you like focusing rangefinders? Yes or No

QUESTION 2: Do you have time to focus in your preferred subject matter? Yes or No

QUESTION 3: Do you shoot stopped down? Yes or No

QUESTION 4: Do you have the money for a lens? Yes or No

QUESTION 5: WIll you be un-phased shooting it in public despite it's cost? Yes or No

Ok - you're still here.. your G.A.S is strong. Well done. Question 1 is important.. rangefinder focusing is very different to focusing on an slr..it can be awkward and slow for a lot of people an it plain doesn't suit some folks. Question 2.. it takes me about 10 to 15 seconds to nail focus on a Leica if i'm being precise rather than zone focusing - do you have that time in your field? If you are a street kid.. iso 1600 it and F8 it and go on with your bad self.. everything is in focus you hero of your own world. Question 3. This refers to film Leicas more commonly which is what most people can afford - Shooting wide open is not really what the film Leicas were made for.. it's a brutal process. Digital Leicas.. get your wide open on.. this is a different story. I personally feel that film Leicas were made to be shot stopped down. Question 4. I really think it's important to have enough money for a Leica lens if you're going to invest in Leica film bodies. After all, its really the lenses that make the image here and the camera is for ergonomics and the tool that facilitates. I think the zeiss glass is maybe too sharp at times and a little digital with its render and the voigtlanders are great but the prices have really creeped up - do yourself a favour and buy used Leica glass. Question 5. Don't buy one of these guys if you're not going to shoot it (unless you're a collector...you do you mr collector person.. you're great, i love your work.)

Ok, you've got this far. The next thing is, if you still want a Leica, go to a store that stocks them and try it out for yourself. It's a huge commitment buying into an M system so try before you buy. Leica supported shops are normally looked after by passionate, independent camera stores and you'll learn loads about them. I love going to Aperture UK and http://www.richardcaplan.co.uk/

Whereas you'll get good prices on camera bodies most places, I buy and will buy my used Leica glass in Japan as there's just so much of it in mint condition and at a solid price

For first time Leica kids, I thoroughly recommend shooting on the Leica M3 if you don't mind not having a meter or the Leica M6 TTL as they are amazing value at under 1K and will last you a lifetime. Make sure you do your research on which frame-lines each camera can bring up and whether it matches with the lenses you want to buy.

Any questions on Leicas, do drop me a message.. i love my M6 TTL and i shoot it every week but i didn't always love it and it took a very long time to get to grips with it. If you're willing to put in the time, you're golden and everything will click. It's not an instant results camera but that's the challenge and the beauty of a Leica

D xx

If you're going to shoot film in 2017, you're going to have to be smart. Smarter than the wise-guys who call you out for doing so 20 years after the birth of digital, 10 years after the birth of the SD card, smart enough not to bankrupt yourself over your aesthetic of choice, your choice to slow down. That's what it is right? As well as the way it feels, it's the pre-meditation of slowing down, it's all of these things that 2017 intrinsically isn't. Film photography serves as a direct contrast with the modern world and modern worldly efficiency driven technologies and yet, as we know, that's why it works for so many of us. So here I am on your side. But i'm here on your side asking you to get smart about your film. Challenge yourself to save money with it. Set yourself things to learn about extra parts of the process and maybe even reduce the costs of doing it. I went for it in 2017 ( and these are all things i've learnt since the turn of the year)

I bulk load motion picture film
i home develop C41 colour and B/W processes
I have a dedicated 35mm Pakon and 120mm Epson V550 scanning set up and everything that, once you've paid your set up costs, slims down the cost of the shooting film process.. and this is what i mean by stop wasting money on film. 6-12£ a roll and then 10-15£ a dev and scan for 36 shots is killer. This year, I hit a wall where it wasn't feasible to shoot on film when i wanted and needed to for client jobs in the music world. I took a stance that i would need to re-evaluate my equipment, sell a few things and make my workflow work for modern day film-shooting so i could avoid those 15£ dev and scans. I sold my 70-200mm Nikon and bought a pakon scanner and all the things i needed to make it work. Now there are plenty of shoots where i buy stock (normally Fuji pro 400h ) but even then i shop around as thoroughly as I can. I average out 5 rolls a shoot. That's 35£ in film stock and would be around 60£ in dev and scan elsewhere. If my shoot fee is 350£ not including transport and food, that's clearly not that feasible. I said to myself i need to stop wasting money on this as there are ways in to make it a viable option when it will always be my preferred option to shoot analogue.

Set yourself a challenge to reduce your film costs. If you're a portra 400 kid, try and find a 'b team' stock for your more everyday shooting like kodak colour plus. If you are spending all your money on developing, shoot six films and to spend 95£ on a starter developing kit and chemicals and learn from there.

https://parallaxphotographic.coop/shop/paterson-film-processing-kit/https://parallaxphotographic.coop/shop/tetenal-colortec-c-41-developing-kit-1l/

My cheat sheet for saving money on film photography is the following (ranging up in difficulty and comes with fun level commentary):

Have a premium stock and a b grade stock (level of fun.. low)
scan yourself (level of fun really low on a flatbed for 35mm. Level of fun on a Pakon hella high)
develop yourself ( if you like cooking, you'll like developing)
scan and develop yourself (get your cook on then get patient)
buy cassettes, a bulk loader and some bulk film (actually so mindless i can roll 20 rolls whilst watching all the geordie shore i can handle)
do it all and shoot film for basically under 1£ a roll all in! (you are officially rich!)

Big love and thanks for reading blog post one!

Dan xx